(c)iStockPhoto / Jacom Stephens
With all the endless camera accessories available out there, it’s easy to become a gearhead, and lose sight of what’s really important: taking quality photographs.
Although a lot of these accessories just add unnecessary weight to your backpack, there are five things I cannot live without as a landscape photographer:
#1 – Tripod
Okay, this one’s obvious (or at least it should be!). When photographing landscapes, you’ll want a lot of depth of field, which means a high f-stop (f/11 or higher, depending on focal length), which means longer exposures. And, longer exposures mean more sensitiviy to camera shake.
Nothing will keep your camera more still than a tripod. It’s virtually impossible to get sharp landscape photographs without one.
#2 – Polarizing filter
There are three great things that a polarzing filter can do for your landscape photos:
- Darken or deepen the color of blue skies
- Eliminate reflections on the surface of water and/or rocks
- Help reduce incoming light, when you need longer shutter speeds
Here are a few examples of the polarizing filter in action:
Photo by Steve Berardi
In the photo above of a Desert Fan Palm, I used a polarizing filter to deepen the blue color of the desert sky.
By the way, the Desert Fan Palm happens to be the only species of palm tree that’s really native to California (most of the ones you see in LA and along the coast were actually brought here by the Australians during the gold rush).
Photo by Steve Berardi
The polarizing filter helped eliminate the reflections on the rock in the photo above, taken at the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon.
Polarizing filters work best when you’re shooting at a 90 degree angle from the sun, so they probably won’t do much good for you if you’re shooting directly at the sun or if the sun is directly behind you.
And, make sure you turn the ring on the filter until you get the best looking results.
#3 – Neutral density filter (2 stop)
The neutral density filter simply reduces the amount of light coming into your camera, so it’s helpful when you want to get longer shutter speeds.
Here’s an example of a scene where this filter is helpful:
Photo by Steve Berardi
The photo above was taken at Lake Tahoe, Nevada. Since the sun had just set, it was still pretty bright out, but I wanted a photo with smooth water, which required a longer shutter speed. To get this longer shutter speed, I had to reduce the amount of light coming into my camera (the job description of the neutral density filter).
Some photographers prefer a 1-stop ND filter, but personally I like the 2-stop because I feel like the 1-stop isn’t strong enough. If I only need to stop down one stop, then I’d rather do something else, like use a smaller aperture.
#4 – Compass
A compass can help you determine where the sun will be at sunrise/sunset, which will tell you if that wonderful golden light will be shining on that ridge or that mountain peak, or whatever you want to capture!
To figure out the azimuth of the sunrise/sunset, you can use the free software application Stellarium.
#5 – Flashlight
Since that golden light only occurs at sunrise or sunset, you’ll find yourself hiking in the dark very often. Bring a flashlight for safety, so you don’t end up tripping on something! Headlamps work great too.
There’s been numerous times where I’ve forgotten a good flashlight and had to hike back in the dark, carefully. One time I just used my cell phone as a flashlight (you might want to checkout that brilliant iPhone flashlight app).
Or, better yet, just bring a sleeping bag and tent and spend the night at your photo location! Wake up early for a beautiful sunrise 
A note on buying camera filters…
When buying camera filters, it’s important to buy filters that are equal in quality to your lens. That means, if you have a pro Canon “L Series” lens you should definitely buy high quality filters. If you don’t, it’s like watching VHS tapes on a HD television.
I’d recommend multi-coated filters by B&W or Hoya, and I always buy them online at B&H Photo/Video because 1) they’re cheaper online and 2) they have a much better selection than the typical camera store.
What about you?
Is there anything you cannot live without as a landscape photographer?
Very well written and a lot of useful information especially for someone like me that never would have thought about things like a compass or a flash light.
One piece of gear that I take with me any time I’m using my tripod is a cable release. If you don’t have one you can use the camera’s self timer to trip the shutter without having your had on the camera. The cable release allows you to trip the shutter exactly when you want to though, not 2 or 10 seconds from when you want to.
@Michael — great point about the cable release! it definitely helps keep your hands off the camera (resulting in less camera shake).
Great post, though I would also recommend, get a GOOD BACKPACK. Something very comfortable, that can hold your equipment AND some extra stuff (ie. food, water, your flashlight, clothes etc).
I use the Lowepro Fastpack 350…probably one of the best investments I have made! Its great for landscape photography b/c you can take out your camera without taking off the backpack, it slings to the side and you can remove the camera from the side. Very convenient.
@Jonathan – that Lowepro backpack looks pretty awesome (just checked it out on BH), thanks for recommending it! I love the idea of not having to take off my backpack every time I want my camera.
Great tips Steve!
Of course we should not forget the most obvious…. a camera and beyond that charged batteries, but as far as true accessories go I don’t leave home with out a cable release.
@Jim – good call on the batteries and cable release. I think I’ll have to do another post soon: “5 MORE things every landscape photographer should carry at all times”
I would second the vote for a cable release. Also, a shoe-mount bubble level. Nothing is more annoying to me than a tilted image. I use mine on almost every shot.
Thanks for the tips, Steve. I’m getting a tripod soon. Looks like my next purchase will be a polarizing filter, then a neutral density filter. By the way, the manual with my Nikon D60 says the D60 cannot be used with a linear polarizing filter, and to use a circular polarizing filter instead. Can you share some insights on this?
Plastic bags and duct tape!
Great list. I don’t bother with a cable release as I prefer to use the self timer with live view. Live view also allows me to use the grid lines to straighten the horizon, so I don’t use a bubble level either. I totally agree with everything else on your list, and I might have added a set of Graduated ND Filters as well.
@Joe – I’m not sure about the real difference between the linear and circular polarizer, but I use the circular ones. Here’s a few pages I just found with a lot of info:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070804201124AALFWWq
http://www.mat.uc.pt/~rps/photos/filters_uv_pol/#polq2
I’m gonna do some more research on this though, and hopefully write an article about my findings
@Rana – Is that for protection from the rain I’m guessing? Good addition!
@Sean – Good idea about the grid lines on live preview. I wish my XTi had that.. I’m tired of slightly tilted landscape photos! I’d like to avoid getting the bubble level, if possible.
I have been buying from B&H for years too. They are great. I have been buying the B&W filters for several years also. I just bought my first neutral density filters a few months ago and have not been out to test them yet. I am a Canon owner also, 50D with dreams of getting a full sensor camera some day. I do like the 1.6 factor though, I have learned to work around it pretty well. I do mostly telephoto shooting, even short distance as in the 17-55 EFS, just got that one last week, before that I used my 17-85 and 28-135.
my 1.8 stop graduated neutral density filter is indispensable here in Yosemite; light tends to bounce off these granite walls, making it difficult to maintain details in shadowed areas–if you’re metering for the bright area above it!
Here’s a little trick I’ve learned from my best friend: If you’re shooting at a slightly slower shutter speed, carefully jiggle the gnd up and down for a much smoother transition between the dark and light sections.
Linear polarizers were used before autofocus cameras and are still used on medium and large format cameras as they have no autofocus, with a few exceptions for medium format. Circular polarizers must be used with autofocus cameras because a linear polarizer would interfere with both autofocus and manual focus, metering, and white balance. Remember that light is a wave emitted in all directions. Linear polarizers only let the horizontal or vertical component of light enter the camera. Circular polarizers let in both the horizontal and vertical components of light.
Don’t restrict yourself to using a polarizer only on sunny days or before the sun goes down. For example, consider shooting a fall foliage scene in the Smoky Mountains with a stream and bolders in very low light. Even though the sun can’t be seen, there are image-killing reflections coming from the sky, especially on overcast days.
If you rotate the polarizer with no change, take it off as every filter, no matter how expensive, is going to rob some sharpness from the image.
Be sure to use a very thin polarizer with wide angle lenses and consider using a “warming polarizer” on overcast days. Even though digital can be post-processed and it is generally required, make the best image possible when you shoot. Don’t sound like the person who just fell of the turnip truck (I live in the South) by saying something stupid like “the image is just a building block and I will fix it in Photoshop.” If you don’t have the necessary understanding of exposure, composition, “seeing,” etc. you will just have a piece of crap “building block” that will probably look even worse after hours of Photoshop work. Shoot smart and process little.
Good shooting.
Charlie
The best tip I’ve ever been given for any outdoor photography – grab one of those free shower caps next time you’re in a hotel. Brilliant for throwing over the camera if you are hit by a sudden downpour! It takes almost no space in your pocket but will stop your camera getting wet while you fumble about in the rucksack for a full waterproof (or bin liners and duct tape!)
Another item you should consider is a GPS locator beacon like http://findmespot.com
Mine saved my life when a bluff I was standing on collapsed dropping me 25′.
http://www.traviswilliams.net/eds-story-on-4029/
I am recently retired and have taken up art class. I would like to paint my wildife and landscape pictures. I own a nikon n4004 slr with a af nikor 50mm 1:1.8 and a af 70-210mm lenses. Do I invest in filters and light meter or go digatal. I have read both ways and tend to believe to stay pat and learn proper photography.Please advise. Thank you> Ben Bezko
I would add a bubble level
Make you a small bean bag. Cut any kind of cloth you like into 9 x 6. Sew all sides and leave a small opening and fill it almost full with some small dried beans you can get at the store. You can set it on a rock or anything else when you just can’t get your tripod in the right place. It has worked well for me for many years.
HI.. GUYS.. I’VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS.
HI.. GUYS.. I’VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS. I AM WAITING FOR YOU RESPONSE..