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	<title>Comments on: 5 things every landscape photographer should carry at all times</title>
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	<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/</link>
	<description>tips and tutorials for digital nature photography</description>
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		<title>By: DR.ATM SALAHUDDIN.</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-38105</link>
		<dc:creator>DR.ATM SALAHUDDIN.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Aug 2011 04:43:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-38105</guid>
		<description>HI.. GUYS.. I&#039;VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS. I AM WAITING FOR YOU RESPONSE..</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>HI.. GUYS.. I&#8217;VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS. I AM WAITING FOR YOU RESPONSE..</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: DR.ATM SALAHUDDIN.</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-38104</link>
		<dc:creator>DR.ATM SALAHUDDIN.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Aug 2011 04:41:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-38104</guid>
		<description>HI.. GUYS.. I&#039;VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>HI.. GUYS.. I&#8217;VE NIKON D50 AND A 18-55 f3.5-5.6 LENS NOW WHICH POLARIZER WILL BE GOOD FOR ME TO TAKE A LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.. CAN YOU PEOPLE HELP ME PLS.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mitchell</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-34897</link>
		<dc:creator>Mitchell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2011 15:32:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-34897</guid>
		<description>Make you a small bean bag. Cut any kind of cloth you like into 9 x 6. Sew all sides and leave a small opening and fill it almost full with some small dried beans you can get at the store. You can set it on a rock or anything else when you just can&#039;t get your tripod in the right place. It has worked well for me for many years.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Make you a small bean bag. Cut any kind of cloth you like into 9 x 6. Sew all sides and leave a small opening and fill it almost full with some small dried beans you can get at the store. You can set it on a rock or anything else when you just can&#8217;t get your tripod in the right place. It has worked well for me for many years.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bill Henderson</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-34092</link>
		<dc:creator>Bill Henderson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 May 2011 17:43:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-34092</guid>
		<description>I would add a bubble level</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would add a bubble level</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: ben bezko</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-26886</link>
		<dc:creator>ben bezko</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Nov 2010 17:11:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-26886</guid>
		<description>I am recently retired and have taken up art class. I would like to paint my wildife and landscape pictures. I own a nikon n4004 slr with a af nikor 50mm 1:1.8 and a af 70-210mm lenses. Do I invest in filters and light meter or go digatal. I have read both ways and tend to believe to stay pat and learn proper photography.Please advise. Thank you&gt;  Ben Bezko</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am recently retired and have taken up art class. I would like to paint my wildife and landscape pictures. I own a nikon n4004 slr with a af nikor 50mm 1:1.8 and a af 70-210mm lenses. Do I invest in filters and light meter or go digatal. I have read both ways and tend to believe to stay pat and learn proper photography.Please advise. Thank you&gt;  Ben Bezko</p>
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		<title>By: Ed Cooley</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-11528</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Cooley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Mar 2010 17:47:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-11528</guid>
		<description>Another item you should consider is a GPS locator beacon like http://findmespot.com

Mine saved my life when a bluff I was standing on collapsed dropping me 25&#039;. 

http://www.traviswilliams.net/eds-story-on-4029/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Another item you should consider is a GPS locator beacon like <a href="http://findmespot.com" rel="nofollow">http://findmespot.com</a></p>
<p>Mine saved my life when a bluff I was standing on collapsed dropping me 25&#8242;. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.traviswilliams.net/eds-story-on-4029/" rel="nofollow">http://www.traviswilliams.net/eds-story-on-4029/</a></p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Silkyfish</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-7683</link>
		<dc:creator>Silkyfish</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2010 09:58:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-7683</guid>
		<description>The best tip I&#039;ve ever been given for any outdoor photography - grab one of those free shower caps next time you&#039;re in a hotel.  Brilliant for throwing over the camera if you are hit by a sudden downpour!  It takes almost no space in your pocket but will stop your camera getting wet while you fumble about in the rucksack for a full waterproof (or bin liners and duct tape!)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The best tip I&#8217;ve ever been given for any outdoor photography &#8211; grab one of those free shower caps next time you&#8217;re in a hotel.  Brilliant for throwing over the camera if you are hit by a sudden downpour!  It takes almost no space in your pocket but will stop your camera getting wet while you fumble about in the rucksack for a full waterproof (or bin liners and duct tape!)</p>
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		<title>By: Charlie</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-7577</link>
		<dc:creator>Charlie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2010 21:05:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-7577</guid>
		<description>Linear polarizers were used before autofocus cameras and are still used on medium and large format cameras as they have no autofocus, with a few exceptions for medium format.  Circular polarizers must be used with autofocus cameras because a linear polarizer would interfere with both autofocus and manual focus, metering, and white balance.  Remember that light is a wave emitted in all directions.  Linear polarizers only let the horizontal or vertical component of light enter the camera.  Circular polarizers let in both the horizontal and vertical components of light.

Don&#039;t restrict yourself to using a polarizer only on sunny days or before the sun goes down.  For example, consider shooting a fall foliage scene in the Smoky Mountains with a stream and bolders in very low light.  Even though the sun can&#039;t be seen, there are image-killing reflections coming from the sky, especially on overcast days.

If you rotate the polarizer with no change, take it off as every filter, no matter how expensive, is going to rob some sharpness from the image.

Be sure to use a very thin polarizer with wide angle lenses and consider using a &quot;warming polarizer&quot; on overcast days.  Even though digital can be post-processed and it is generally required, make the best image possible when you shoot.  Don&#039;t sound like the person who just fell of the turnip truck (I live in the South) by saying something stupid like &quot;the image is just a building block and I will fix it in Photoshop.&quot;  If you don&#039;t have the necessary understanding of exposure, composition, &quot;seeing,&quot; etc. you will just have a piece of crap &quot;building block&quot; that will probably look even worse after hours of Photoshop work.  Shoot smart and process little.

Good shooting.
Charlie</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Linear polarizers were used before autofocus cameras and are still used on medium and large format cameras as they have no autofocus, with a few exceptions for medium format.  Circular polarizers must be used with autofocus cameras because a linear polarizer would interfere with both autofocus and manual focus, metering, and white balance.  Remember that light is a wave emitted in all directions.  Linear polarizers only let the horizontal or vertical component of light enter the camera.  Circular polarizers let in both the horizontal and vertical components of light.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t restrict yourself to using a polarizer only on sunny days or before the sun goes down.  For example, consider shooting a fall foliage scene in the Smoky Mountains with a stream and bolders in very low light.  Even though the sun can&#8217;t be seen, there are image-killing reflections coming from the sky, especially on overcast days.</p>
<p>If you rotate the polarizer with no change, take it off as every filter, no matter how expensive, is going to rob some sharpness from the image.</p>
<p>Be sure to use a very thin polarizer with wide angle lenses and consider using a &#8220;warming polarizer&#8221; on overcast days.  Even though digital can be post-processed and it is generally required, make the best image possible when you shoot.  Don&#8217;t sound like the person who just fell of the turnip truck (I live in the South) by saying something stupid like &#8220;the image is just a building block and I will fix it in Photoshop.&#8221;  If you don&#8217;t have the necessary understanding of exposure, composition, &#8220;seeing,&#8221; etc. you will just have a piece of crap &#8220;building block&#8221; that will probably look even worse after hours of Photoshop work.  Shoot smart and process little.</p>
<p>Good shooting.<br />
Charlie</p>
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		<title>By: Edie Howe</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-6331</link>
		<dc:creator>Edie Howe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jan 2010 03:50:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-6331</guid>
		<description>my 1.8 stop graduated neutral density filter is indispensable here in Yosemite;  light tends to bounce off these granite walls, making it difficult to maintain details in shadowed areas--if you&#039;re metering for the bright area above it! 

Here&#039;s a little trick I&#039;ve learned from my best friend:  If you&#039;re shooting at a slightly slower shutter speed, carefully jiggle the gnd up and down for a much smoother transition between the dark and light sections.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>my 1.8 stop graduated neutral density filter is indispensable here in Yosemite;  light tends to bounce off these granite walls, making it difficult to maintain details in shadowed areas&#8211;if you&#8217;re metering for the bright area above it! </p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a little trick I&#8217;ve learned from my best friend:  If you&#8217;re shooting at a slightly slower shutter speed, carefully jiggle the gnd up and down for a much smoother transition between the dark and light sections.</p>
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		<title>By: Debbie Freeman</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/5-things-every-landscape-photographer-should-carry-at-all-times/comment-page-1/#comment-5360</link>
		<dc:creator>Debbie Freeman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:15:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=611#comment-5360</guid>
		<description>I have been buying from B&amp;H for years too. They are great. I have been buying the B&amp;W filters for several years also. I just bought my first neutral density filters a few months ago and have not been out to test them yet. I am a Canon owner also, 50D with dreams of getting a full sensor camera some day. I do like the 1.6 factor though, I have learned to work around it pretty well. I do mostly telephoto shooting, even short distance as in the 17-55 EFS, just got that one last week, before that I used my 17-85 and 28-135.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been buying from B&amp;H for years too. They are great. I have been buying the B&amp;W filters for several years also. I just bought my first neutral density filters a few months ago and have not been out to test them yet. I am a Canon owner also, 50D with dreams of getting a full sensor camera some day. I do like the 1.6 factor though, I have learned to work around it pretty well. I do mostly telephoto shooting, even short distance as in the 17-55 EFS, just got that one last week, before that I used my 17-85 and 28-135.</p>
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