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	<title>Comments on: 7 Tips for getting sharper photographs</title>
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	<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs</link>
	<description>tips and tutorials for digital nature photography</description>
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		<title>By: Amy</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-41099</link>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2011 02:04:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-41099</guid>
		<description>Great tips! For Sharpening your images in Photoshop there&#039;s some useful information here 
http://futurephoto.weebly.com/essential-retouching.html</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great tips! For Sharpening your images in Photoshop there&#8217;s some useful information here<br />
<a href="http://futurephoto.weebly.com/essential-retouching.html" rel="nofollow">http://futurephoto.weebly.com/essential-retouching.html</a></p>
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		<title>By: Subramoniam</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-40878</link>
		<dc:creator>Subramoniam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Nov 2011 12:31:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-40878</guid>
		<description>That&#039;s quite useful tips.

Even using tripod I found that 2 sec timer does not work unless it is a very heavy tripod. In normal ones the vibration of camera after pressing shutter release dies down in about 3-4 sec with the center column down. With the column up it can be around 7 sec. this means the camera would be shaking even when the timer ha timed out and photo can be ruined.

Using a cable release is the best option even with 2 sec timer. Else use 10 sec timer.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s quite useful tips.</p>
<p>Even using tripod I found that 2 sec timer does not work unless it is a very heavy tripod. In normal ones the vibration of camera after pressing shutter release dies down in about 3-4 sec with the center column down. With the column up it can be around 7 sec. this means the camera would be shaking even when the timer ha timed out and photo can be ruined.</p>
<p>Using a cable release is the best option even with 2 sec timer. Else use 10 sec timer.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Jan Maklak</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-40237</link>
		<dc:creator>Jan Maklak</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:34:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-40237</guid>
		<description>And when you need even more sharpness the best way I found in PP is to use the high pass filter at about 12 pixels and use a blend mode of hard light or if that&#039;s too much the blend mode of overlay.  There are Youtube videos on the subject.  

One other thing I have done (and not often as it&#039;s time consuming) is to enlarge the photograph in Photoshop to a pixel view and change some of the pixel colors. I shot a flower on a black background and was very hapy with it except for one small area of focus right at the tip of a petal.  I changes a few pixels to black instead of blurry and got a significantly better image, infact it was a top scoring photo at the club I belong to.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>And when you need even more sharpness the best way I found in PP is to use the high pass filter at about 12 pixels and use a blend mode of hard light or if that&#8217;s too much the blend mode of overlay.  There are Youtube videos on the subject.  </p>
<p>One other thing I have done (and not often as it&#8217;s time consuming) is to enlarge the photograph in Photoshop to a pixel view and change some of the pixel colors. I shot a flower on a black background and was very hapy with it except for one small area of focus right at the tip of a petal.  I changes a few pixels to black instead of blurry and got a significantly better image, infact it was a top scoring photo at the club I belong to.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Marc</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-37071</link>
		<dc:creator>Marc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Jul 2011 02:37:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-37071</guid>
		<description>I read a good tip recently, in Backpacker. It&#039;s no substitute for a tripod, but it does help some. If you shoot in burst mode, the shots in the middle of the burst will be a bit sharper. For me, someone who takes most of my shots while hiking, it&#039;s proven to be pretty effective, though again, no substitute for a tripod, or even a fence post.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I read a good tip recently, in Backpacker. It&#8217;s no substitute for a tripod, but it does help some. If you shoot in burst mode, the shots in the middle of the burst will be a bit sharper. For me, someone who takes most of my shots while hiking, it&#8217;s proven to be pretty effective, though again, no substitute for a tripod, or even a fence post.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Steve Toone</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-36250</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve Toone</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2011 23:55:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-36250</guid>
		<description>@Gary

As an ex diving photographer, the best method was to ensure you are neutrally buoyant (when you breathe in/out you move up/down). Once you&#039;ve got this when you take the shot, hold you breath, if you are mid stream not a lot else you can do.  Obviously at the sea bed you can use a rock or something else dead!  Holding breath at the point of shutter depression should help.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Gary</p>
<p>As an ex diving photographer, the best method was to ensure you are neutrally buoyant (when you breathe in/out you move up/down). Once you&#8217;ve got this when you take the shot, hold you breath, if you are mid stream not a lot else you can do.  Obviously at the sea bed you can use a rock or something else dead!  Holding breath at the point of shutter depression should help.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Gary</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-34695</link>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 May 2011 05:54:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-34695</guid>
		<description>Any tips on how to keep the camera steady underwater ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Any tips on how to keep the camera steady underwater ?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Pradeep</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-32488</link>
		<dc:creator>Pradeep</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2011 04:40:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-32488</guid>
		<description>To add to the above points - Picture style plays an important role in sharpness. Again that depends on the subject you are clicking. For example, Standard will give more sharpness over portrait (if sharpness is considered over skin tone). Or else the user defined picture style can be used, with a bigger sharpness value. But this need to be chosen carefully, as it might affect the color.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To add to the above points &#8211; Picture style plays an important role in sharpness. Again that depends on the subject you are clicking. For example, Standard will give more sharpness over portrait (if sharpness is considered over skin tone). Or else the user defined picture style can be used, with a bigger sharpness value. But this need to be chosen carefully, as it might affect the color.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: W j dougherty</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-26466</link>
		<dc:creator>W j dougherty</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Oct 2010 12:01:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-26466</guid>
		<description>The purchase of two L lenses were a valuable addition, the 430EX2 flash added a marvelously new spectrum to my photoworld, the ND And CP filters are wonderful accessories, the single most valuable piece of equipment I&#039;ve bought was a quality, sturdy tripod! It made so many photos achievable!
Though I don&#039;t always carry it, I do bring it along as much as possible because it ensures my percentage of sharp photos is increased manyfold!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The purchase of two L lenses were a valuable addition, the 430EX2 flash added a marvelously new spectrum to my photoworld, the ND And CP filters are wonderful accessories, the single most valuable piece of equipment I&#8217;ve bought was a quality, sturdy tripod! It made so many photos achievable!<br />
Though I don&#8217;t always carry it, I do bring it along as much as possible because it ensures my percentage of sharp photos is increased manyfold!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Roy Evans</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-5857</link>
		<dc:creator>Roy Evans</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:33:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-5857</guid>
		<description>I am considering a new lens for my Canon 350D. I am looking at the Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. I am shooting hawks, etc.  Would you reccommend this lens or something comparable? I don&#039;t have thousands of dollars to sink into a lens.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am considering a new lens for my Canon 350D. I am looking at the Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. I am shooting hawks, etc.  Would you reccommend this lens or something comparable? I don&#8217;t have thousands of dollars to sink into a lens.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: gopu</title>
		<link>http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/comment-page-1/#comment-4717</link>
		<dc:creator>gopu</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photonaturalist.net/?p=37#comment-4717</guid>
		<description>it helps me to good and sharp photographs tank u</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>it helps me to good and sharp photographs tank u</p>
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