Photo by Vic Berardi
There’s no single trick to getting sharp photographs (although a tripod definitely helps the most!). But, when you combine a lot of small little tricks, you’ll quickly get closer to obtaining some tack sharp photos. So, here are seven little things you can do:
#1 – Always use a tripod
I know–tripods are heavy, they take a long time to setup, and can cost a lot of money, but it’s nearly impossible to get sharp photographs without one. Nothing keeps your camera more still.
#2 – Enable mirror lockup
Normally, the mirror in your SLR will flip up immediately before the shutter opens, and this flip can make the camera vibrate a little. Enabling mirror-lockup (disabled by default on most cameras) will add a significant pause between the time the mirror goes up and the shutter opens, letting any vibration die down before the photo is actually taken. Look in your camera’s manual to find out how to enable this feature.
#3 – Use a remote shutter-release or timer
The less you touch your camera, the less it will shake (simple, huh?). When you press the shutter button on your camera to take a photo, there’s a good chance you’ll shake the camera a little.To prevent this, use a remote control to release the shutter, or you can just use the timer on your camera (so any vibration you caused by pressing the button will die down before the shutter is actually released).
#4 – Increase shutter speed
When you increase your shutter speed, you leave the shutter open for a shorter length of time, so there’s less time available for the camera to shake. Before increasing shutter speed though, consider how it’ll affect your depth of field, noise levels (if you increase ISO), and/or exposure. The trade may not be worth it.
#5 – Use manual focus
Autofocus is great for moving subjects or when you need to take photos quickly, but when your subject is somewhat stationary (i.e. you’re shooting a beautiful landscape), you might want to use manual focus. This ensures you’re focusing on the right subject, at the proper distance (1/3 of the way in). For macro photography, manual focus is the only way to get sharp photos. Autofocus just doesn’t work too well at close distances.
#6 – Shoot lots and lots of photographs
When shooting wildlife or any kind of fast moving subject, the best way to get a super sharp photo is to simply take lots and lots of shots. In order to get this sharp photo below of an Anna’s Hummingbird, I took over 400 photos in five minutes, coming away with just ONE sharp photo! Take advantage of digital film, and shoot away!
#7 – Use the sweet spot of your lens
Most lenses are sharpest in their “mid ranges” and about two stops below their minimum aperture. For example, if your 17-40 mm zoom lens has a speed of f/4, then you’ll probably get the sharpest results from using f/8 and zoomed at 30 mm. Very rarely are lenses sharp on their “fringes.” Also, fixed focal length lenses are almost always sharper than zoom lenses. Remember though: don’t sacrifice proper depth of field just so you can use your lens’ sharpest aperture!
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About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.
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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
I like the post. some great tips. i think i so need to buy a tripod soon. letrs, let me also increase th shutter speed and let me take a lot and lot of photos. for the others, i need to study them starting today. thanks for the tips!
with that i have added you to my favorite blogs (links in my site) as it is very informative and oh well GREAT!
Also buy decent lenses. The basic kit lenses seem to suffer more of the ‘un-sharp’ dilemma. I would actually suggest making the aparture around f8 or so as well. Will cause problems as the light is not always there to a higher f with a zoom lens.
Now that I’m taking more photos & uploading to Flickr, achieving sharper images is something I definitely need to work on. Thanks for the tips.
@Helmut – good point about the kit lens, it definitely is NOT very sharp.. a good step up would be the 50mm prime (cheap but sharp).
I like your site and tips but I’m frustrated trying to get sharp landscapes and would appreciate your guidance. You mentioned using 17-40 F4 that the sweet spot would be F6.3, yet we are “supposed” to step down to smaller apertures. F11 is usually the smallest opening that still retains good sharpness throughout. Will F16-22+ ever be usable for sharp landscapes? Also the rule of focusing 1/3 into frame is not easy if I have foreground to infinity in the frame. Is it better to manual focus by feet measurement on lens – and what # do I pick? I’ve failed much more than succeeded and need help. Thanks.
In regards to the landscape photography it depends on you and what results you would like to get out of your pictures. Take a look at my website at http://shutterbug.moonfruit.com. I am still learning just like everyone .
Hi i am new to photogpraphy…i am wildlife and nature lover, enthusiasist…i have recently purchased a sony a330, its a entry level, but good features,..i wanted to learn the terms involved in photography..so i chose sony a330 which had almost all professinal features…i want to enhance my camera with an 500mm f80 SAL lens..or let me know which is the best suitable for wildlife and nature….
Cheers…
charles
it helps me to good and sharp photographs tank u
I am considering a new lens for my Canon 350D. I am looking at the Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. I am shooting hawks, etc. Would you reccommend this lens or something comparable? I don’t have thousands of dollars to sink into a lens.