How to get sharp photos of birds in flight

by Vic Berardi

Photo by Vic Berardi

Photo by Vic Berardi

Trying to photograph birds in flight can be frustrating. It may seem like complete randomness at first, but there are actually a few techniques that will significantly increase your chances of getting a sharp photo, some of which are presented in this article.

Although there are many lens choices for photographing birds, our discussion will focus on the medium length hand-holdable telephoto lenses.

When using the medium length telephoto lenses (e.g. Canon’s 300mm f4, Canon’s 400mm f5.6, Canon’s 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 and Nikon’s 200-400mm f4), it’s always advisable to use a tripod for the sharpest photographs possible. However, one type of photography virtually renders a tripod useless: photographing birds in flight and in particular, fast moving birds like raptors!

How to hold your camera

Photo by Ann Berardi

Photo by Ann Berardi

Photo by Ann Berardi

Photo by Ann Berardi

The two photos above show the proper way to hold your camera and lens. It’s important that your hands and entire body are in a relaxed position and that your position allows you to pivot easily. Confine your position and you’ll compromise your ability to move accurately as a bird weaves across the sky.

You will see in these photos that I have one hand firmly on the camera and the other hand relaxed at or near the end of the lens. This is the best way to have full balance and control of your movements.

In the first photo, I’m holding the camera in a somewhat level and horizontal position. Many times you’ll encounter a bird perched, and this position will allow you to not only take sharp photos of a stationary bird but also be ready if it takes flight and flies close to the ground.

In the second photo, I’m holding the camera for a bird in flight. You will notice that the position of my hands is virtually identical to the horizontal position. Again, it is important that your stance allows you to move in multiple directions, even to the point of almost turning around completely. Fast moving birds like hawks and falcons allow very little time for adjustments. So, being ready for their sudden shifts in direction is vital.

How to setup your camera

The next thing to consider is what camera settings to use. There are two mandatory requirements for shooting birds in flight:

Use a fast shutter speed, but don’t compromise good exposure or depth of field. Shutter speeds of 1/1000 or faster are recommended. Using high shutter speeds helps compensate for any minor unsteadiness and will also freeze the motion of the bird.

Maximize the burst rate on your camera. To maximize the amount of photos you can take in a burst, switch your camera to JPEG mode. Since JPEGs are significantly smaller than RAW, they won’t fill up your camera’s buffer as fast as RAW. Here’s a series of six photos that illustrate why a fast burst rate is important:

Photo by Vic Berardigos_6281pgos_6282pgos_6283pgos_6284pgos_6285p

All photos above were taken by Vic Berardi, (c) 2009

This sequence of six photos was taken with the camera set at the highest possible burst rate of 6 fps. The entire sequence of this shot lasted only 1 second total.

In general, there are three things to look for in a good bird image: sharpness, exposure and natural pose. Although all these shots were perfectly exposed, only one photo (#3) was both sharp and with the bird in a natural position. Had I not used a high burst rate, I may have missed this shot completely. And trying to get a bird in flight with a natural pose with only one shot being fired is pure luck. Take most of the luck out by using a high burst rate. This photo was shot with a Canon 300mm f/4L IS USM lens with the camera set at ISO 400 and f/4 at 1/2000 second. Oh, by the way, the bird is a juvenile Northern Goshawk.

Photo by Vic Berardi

Photo by Vic Berardi

Personally I like to set my camera in manual mode and use JPEG only.

Manual mode allows me to not worry about the camera changing settings as a bird moves past visible terrain of various shades or when the camera’s light meter misreads the scene such as when a bird moves in and out of your frame across a bright sky.

Shooting in JPEG lets me use the highest burst rate without any chance of the camera stalling as it sometimes does with RAW bursts. But keep in mind these are just my personal preferences. Plenty of bird photographers use either aperture priority or shutter priority along with RAW and achieve amazing results. Experiment and see what works best for you.

Just remember that your time of opportunity with a fast moving bird may only be a second or less!

Oh, and if you’re interested in learning more about raptors, please check out my new blog, The Raptorphile.

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vicbAbout the Author: Vic Berardi is a raptor lover that lives in the Midwest. He is the founder of the Illinois Beach State Park Hawk Watch and every weekend of the year you’ll find him searching for hawks and photographing them. Several of his photographs have been published in a leading raptor journal and in articles he has written. During the year he gives presentations teaching others about hawks and hawk migration. Vic also photographs dragonflies and wild flowers and is always respectful of nature and its creatures.

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{ 54 comments… read them below or add one }

caroline January 25, 2012 at 6:40 am

Hi, I have just bought a 5D mark II and I am using my 100-400mm lens as I am specifically wanting to shoot birds (we have hawks and Bald Eagles currently making regular appearnces in my local park!). I am mostly doing handheld for the very reason you point out-it’s almost impossible to shoot these moving targets on a tripod or monopod. My question is-which setting should I have my camera on if the shutter is to be set at 1/1000 and the ISO 400 ie TV,AV or M ? And how do I set my camera to take a “burst”? I used to own a Rebel and it had the litle “sports” setting which when you held down the shutter button gave you a burst. There is no such selection on the 5D and I am struggling to figure this out even with the manual?? Thanks ps I love your hawk photos:)

Vic Berardi January 25, 2012 at 5:53 pm

@ Mac, thank you and yes “practice and more practice” is great advice!!

@ Ian, thank you too! Not sure I would be able to help you but if you’d like to send me the photo, email me at VBirdman@aol.com

Vic Berardi January 25, 2012 at 6:15 pm

@ Caroline,
Excellent camera and lens! I will try to answer your questions as best as possible.

1) Setting your camera for burst mode:
On page 85 of your manual you want to follow the instructions for setting the camera in the “Continuous shooting” Make sure you see the image for this setting which looks like a staggered stacked deck of cards. Your camera shoots at a maximum of 3.9 frames per second which will be fine for birds in flight.

2) The question on how to set your camera is difficult to answer. Settings for proper exposure vary depending on light conditions. This is true no matter what mode you use, AV, TV or M. However, only in “M” do you have immediate full control. In “TV” or “AV” you’re bound to the camera’s metering of a scene unless you employ the exposure compensation feature. The “M” mode requires more thought but also gives you full control. Simply put, there is only one setting for exposure that is accurate!

Personally I shoot in full Manual exposure mode (M), which requires much patience in learning, to the point that your confidence level is very high that you can accurately set your camera at the proper exposure. I select my aperture first depending on the lighting. I select the smallest aperture I can that still allows me to have an acceptable shutter speed for birds in flight (for me that’s a minimum of 1/800 second.) Then I set the shutter speed.

I think Steve has previously posted something on learning Manual exposure here on the PhotoNaturalist. There is also info on the web and in books.

Hope some of what I said helps!
Vic

BGenie January 26, 2012 at 9:55 pm

I appreciate the tips. You covered a lot, but left out focusing. Do you recommend AF or CAF (continuous AF)? I can’t see trying manual focus in this situation…
Thanks,
BGenie (shooting with Olympus e620)

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